【EN】Osaka Travel: Exploring Tsutenkaku Tower and Shinsekai – A Nostalgic Journey Through Retro Osaka

Looking back at my trip to Osaka in March 2023, the sky was an incredible, crisp blue—the perfect weather for a walk. When people look for the "soul" of Osaka, the place that truly captures the city's gritty, energetic, and nostalgic heart is the Shinsekai district and its iconic landmark, Tsutenkaku Tower.
Walking down the Shinsekai-hontori Shopping Street toward the tower, you are surrounded by the sights and smells of local Kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers) shops and retro neon signs. Even though it is a popular tourist area, it still retains a strong sense of Showa-era life. In this post, I want to share my experience and the unique scenery I captured during that beautiful afternoon.

A Symbol of Resilience: The History of Tsutenkaku

Tsutenkaku is more than just a metal tower to the people of Osaka; it is a symbol of the city's post-war reconstruction. The current second-generation tower was built in 1956 and stands about 108 meters tall. While it may not seem high compared to modern skyscrapers, its unique octagonal design makes it one of the most recognizable landmarks in Japan.
As you wander through the side streets of Shinsekai, you’ll find that Tsutenkaku reveals different faces from every angle. I personally love capturing it through the gaps between modern apartment buildings—the contrast between contemporary living and this mid-century tower perfectly represents the layers of Osaka’s history.

A Snapshot of the Era: Hope Beyond the Mask

During my visit in March 2023, the tower featured several large, striking banners. This was a unique time when Japan was transitioning out of the pandemic era. The banners read "Akenai yoru wa nai" (There is no night that does not break) and "Masuku no shita wa egao de" (Smile under your mask).
Seeing these messages was quite moving. They weren't just advertisements; they were words of encouragement from the tower to the citizens and travelers alike. Capturing these time-specific details is what makes personal travel blogs so valuable—it’s a record of a specific moment in history that you can't find in a generic guidebook.

Approaching the Base: The Architecture of Shinsekai-hontori

Entering through the green "Tsutenkaku-hontori" archway marks the beginning of a visual ritual. This street is one of the best spots for photography, where the vibrant local business signs lead your eye directly to the majestic tower at the end of the road.
As you get closer, the "HITACHI" branding—the tower’s long-time sponsor—becomes clear. Looking up at the intricate interlocking steel beams, you can really appreciate the craftsmanship of the 1950s. The tower has a raw, industrial beauty that modern glass structures often lack.

At the Foot of the Tower: Structural Beauty

Standing directly underneath the tower is a powerful experience. You can see the massive steel legs that support the entire structure and the glass floor of the observatory jutting out above.
The entrance to the observatory is actually located underground. Watching the excited crowds gather to see the view or rub the feet of "Billiken" (the God of Good Luck) adds a wonderful energy to the site. Even if you don't go up, the area around the base is a masterclass in mid-century engineering.

Traveler Tips for Shinsekai

・How to Get There: The easiest way is to take the Sakaisuji Subway Line to Ebisucho Station. Use Exit 3, and you will emerge right at the start of the Tsutenkaku-hontori street. Alternatively, walk from Dobutsuen-mae Station to experience the busier side of Shinsekai first.
・Photography Tip: Morning light is best if you want the tower to glow against the blue sky. However, returning at dusk to see the neon signs flicker on provides a completely different, cinematic atmosphere.
・Local Flavor: You cannot visit Shinsekai without trying Kushikatsu. Most shops around here are legendary—just remember the local rule: "No double-dipping in the sauce!"

A Warm Memory of Osaka

・Highlights: Retro shopping street vibes, historical banners, and iconic photography spots.
・Location: Tsutenkaku Tower.
・Address: 1-18-6 Ebisuhigashi, Naniwa-ku, Osaka.
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