【EN】Nagano Travel: Katakurakan – Bathing in a 1928 Roman-Style Masterpiece and National Cultural Property

 During my 2026 journey through Nagano, I found myself standing before the grand entrance of Katakurakan in Suwa City. The thick stone pillars, engraved with the name Katakurakan in deep green letters, immediately set a tone of mystery and historical weight.
While many visitors come to Suwa for the lake or the famous shrines, for me, this Western-style hot spring building—built in 1928 during the early Showa era—was the true soul of the city. It is not just a public bath; it is one of Japan’s oldest surviving suburban leisure facilities and a rare fusion of European aesthetics and Japanese onsen culture.

The Legacy of the Silk King: A Brief History of Katakurakan

As you walk down the path leading to the main hall, the brown brick walls and Tudor-style architecture evoke a sense of early 20th-century elegance. This magnificent structure was built by the Katakura Clan, the "Silk Kings" of Japan at the time.
After touring Europe and North America, Kentaro Katakura was deeply inspired by the social welfare and leisure facilities he saw abroad. Upon returning, he decided to build this "People’s Palace" in his hometown of Suwa to provide a place for local workers and citizens to relax. Because of its unique historical and architectural significance, Katakurakan was designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan in 2011.

Must-See Feature: The 1.1-Meter Deep Roman "Thousand Person Bath"

The crown jewel of Katakurakan is the indoor Sennin-buro (Thousand Person Bath). Although the name suggests a thousand people, it comfortably fits about 100 bathers. This marble bath is unlike any other onsen in Japan:
・The Unique Standing Bath: The pool is 1.1 meters deep, meaning you soak while standing up. This is extremely rare in Japan. It is said that standing allows the water pressure to act more evenly on the body, providing deeper relaxation.
・Marble Artistry: The pool is lined with expensive marble, and the floor is covered with small rounded pebbles. Walking on these pebbles while you soak provides a natural foot reflexology massage.
・Roman Bathhouse Atmosphere: Surrounded by gargoyles, stained glass windows, and fine statues, you will feel like you’ve stepped onto the set of the movie "Thermae Romae."

A Night to Remember: The Warm Glow of the Past

If your itinerary allows, I highly recommend staying in Suwa until after sunset to see Katakurakan lit up. In the dark, the warm yellow lights highlight the tall chimneys and the sharp peaks of the roof, making the building look both solemn and romantic.
The nighttime atmosphere is a world apart from the daytime. Without the crowds of tourists, there is a profound sense of peace. Sitting on the second-floor balcony and feeling the breeze from Lake Suwa, you can easily imagine the citizens of decades past gathering here. This connection to history was one of my most cherished memories from my 2026 trip.

Practical Tips for Visiting Katakurakan

Katakurakan is a perfect blend of architectural appreciation and actual relaxation. Here is some helpful info:
・Recommended for: History buffs, architecture lovers, and those looking for a unique hot spring experience.
・Access: About an 8-10 minute walk from JR Kami-Suwa Station.
・Bath Fee: Approximately 700 - 800 yen for adults.
・Pro Tip: Towels are not provided for free, so bring your own or buy a commemorative one at the counter. After your bath, take a short stroll to the nearby Lake Suwa for a perfect end to your visit.




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